Beyond the Horizon: Paddle Adventures in Lofoten with Bart de Zwart

Bart, an avid SUP enthusiast, embarks on an awe-inspiring solo expedition, delving into the unspoiled beauty of Norway's Lofoten archipelago. Through his eyes and experiences, we immerse ourselves in the unparalleled landscapes, unexpected encounters, and the relentless spirit of adventure that define this incredible odyssey. Join us as we follow Bart's intrepid voyage, navigating the Arctic waters, encountering marine life, and embracing the raw, untamed beauty of Lofoten.

LOFOTEN, Norway

It is time for a new paddle adventure. I have been walking around with this in my head for quite some time now. My wife and I spend our lives nowadays on a catamaran, sailing with clients to remote wing, SUP, surf, and kite spots. Although this is an exciting life full of adventure, I have less time to do stand-up paddle adventures in other places around the globe. An adventure for me could be anywhere, as long as it involves a big change in surroundings, which could be nature or culture or a big challenge.

Photo courtesy: Bart de Zwart

Exploring Lofoten: A Paddle Adventure Beckons

I had a small window between family visits, dental appointments, and going back to our boat in French Polynesia. I had my eye on Norway for quite some time—a large and beautiful country full of warm and welcoming people. Svein, founder, and owner of Starboard is a proud Norwegian; he had always told me about Lofoten. This is an archipelago in Norway. It's known for its dramatic scenery, high mountains, and deep fjords and lies just above the Arctic Circle. I checked the weather, and the decision was made quickly. I bought tickets, packed the essentials, and five days later, I was there.

Photos courtesy: Bart de Zwart

Journey Preparation and Arrival

I also rented a small car to get me to good starting points for my paddle adventures. It was May, and the temperatures were still very low (0-12 degrees Celsius), and snow was everywhere! I flew into Tromsø, found my small car, and drove to the archipelago.

Paddling in the Norwegian Wilderness

I traveled light. All I brought was my Starboard 14 x 32 Touring inflatable, a 3-piece Lima paddle, two small dry bags, a bivouac bag, a water bag, and some warm clothing. It all fits in my inflatable bag and one small duffel bag. This trip, I was going to rough it. Sleep in the car or in my bivouac bag outside if the weather was good enough, buy food where I could, and see where I would go every day.

First Encounters: Paddling Trollfjorden

My first paddle adventure was Trollfjorden, a deep fjord with high mountain ranges on both sides. I got lucky with the weather; although it rained most of the night, the sun broke out in the morning. You won’t see many people or other paddlers around these areas. Plenty of adventurers are heading here early to beat the ‘crowds’ on the road. For most people, it is too far, too cold, but it is so worth its nature, and the scenery is astonishing.

Photo courtesy: Bart de Zwart

Village Exploration and Coastal Paddling

The next two days, I visited the small fishing villages and paddled short trips to Fredvang, the start of my next paddle adventure. It was windy and slightly offshore. It took me a few hours to get around the north to the valley Stokkvikelva in Lofotodden national park, a broad, lush green valley with nothing but a tiny little hut just big enough to give shelter to a passing hiker or paddler. Even though this was only a few hours from the village, it felt like I was at the end of the world, all by myself. Lonely but at the same time remarkably beautiful. I contemplated staying here for a few days, but there was still so much more to see, so on I went.

Photo courtesy: Bart de Zwart

Exploring Reine: Encounter with Orcas

The next town was one of my favorites, Reine, a colorful, picturesque small Norwegian fishing village with their typical Bordeaux red, brown, and yellow houses, fishing boats, and drying of the stockfish everywhere. Maybe I liked it so much because I spotted some orcas, a big group of about 8 outside the village. For me, orcas are a fascinating, intelligent, and graceful species.

Fjord Paddling and Birdwatching

The following day I pumped up the board again and paddled inside the fjords. Reine has an inside lake with three fjords sticking out as fingers. I paddled the first Forsfjorden, a shorter but spectacular fjord with again some lovely waterfalls. Next, I battled the north wind to go to VindFjorden. The tide was going out, and I had to walk the last kilometer because I ran out of water. At the end of the fjord, I hiked over the mountain to the other side to a giant beautiful beach. On the top of the mountain, I stopped for some food, but I couldn’t sit around too long. The wind was cold, and I had to stay moving. I found a small restaurant and had some well-deserved fish for dinner.

Photos courtesy: Bart de Zwart

Delving into Viking History

The following day I visited the Lofotr Viking Museum in Bøstad. A great way to see how the Vikings who lived here not only survived the harsh winters but also thrived in this environment.

Wildlife Adventure at Bleiksøya Island

I relied on the small supermarkets you can find in every small town to supply food and drinks. I was inspired by the orcas and wanted to see more of the water wildlife, so I decided to drive all the way up north to Andenes. I read that there is a gathering place for whales. I didn’t realize that the gathering place is about 10 km offshore, and with the 20 knots winds, I thought it wouldn’t be wise to paddle that far offshore. So I changed plans and went to the next coastal town, Bleik. There is a small island just offshore named Bleiksøya. One of the few gathering places for puffin birds. You know, those cute small birds with big round beaks. I slept on the beach right in front of the island. I woke up early because the winds were supposed to be lighter in the morning but would gather strength up to 30 knots during the day.

Photo courtesy: Bart de Zwart

Reflecting on a Captivating Adventure

With the strong side wind, the 3 km paddle to Bleiksøya was not easy, and I was glad when I made it onto the island. Again I was all by myself amidst literally thousands of birds. The most numerous of the birds out on Bleiksøya Island is the puffin. Around 80,000 breeding pairs come to Bleik every year, arriving on 14 April and departing on 10 August. These dates remain virtually unchanged from one year to the next, only varying by a day or two in some years. Again, animals with such feelings for timing and direction fascinate me.

Photos courtesy: Bart de Zwart

A Captivating Conclusion

On the mountain of Bleiksøya, I also saw many White-tailed (sea) eagles gliding on the winds, seemingly without effort, just riding the endless winds with their wingspan of up to 2.7 meters. With a good effort, I returned to the same beach I started from. I somehow expected to be blown more downwind and have to walk back to the car. I enjoyed a Norway breakfast (muesli with yogurt and fruit) with a view of the island full of birds. A captivating place and a worthy end to this fantastic time in the Lofoten.

For more from Bart de Dwart, click HERE.